Ani naani anofunga kuti fashoni yazvino uno yakabuda pasina nzvimbo angafuratira idi iroro zvinenge zvese zvakanga zvatogadzirwaStrategic rip, zvipfeko zvinobata-bata, kuboora uye mavheti edzinza: zviratidzo zvakawanda zvemudhorobha zvine midzi mufashoni yenguva dzakapfuura uye dzinotaridzika zvakanyanya seyaipfekwa mazana emakore apfuura kupfuura zvatinofunga.
Muongorori Consuelo Sanz de Bremond anounza pamwechete aya mabatiro mubasa rake Nhoroondo yezvipfeko zveSpanish (Almuzara), rwendo rwunobva kuMiddle Ages kuenda kuzana ramakore rechi 20 uye runobvisa fungidziro dzakaita sehunoti kuomesera kusingaperi kwemamwe matare kana manyepo pamusoro pehutsanana hwehumambo. Nekutarisa zvemagariro uye didactic, munyori—Valencian, akaberekwa muna 1963—anotikoka kuona kuti zvipfeko zvinoratidzira sei makirasi, masangano uye zvimiro zveroorano.
Wadhiropu yevarume yakashamisa
Kunyange zvazvo zvingaita sezvinotyisa, shoko racho "panty" nhamba yakanyorwa kubva muzana remakore rechi12 kudoma imwe chete zvipfeko zvemukati zvevarumeShanduko yehukadzi hwezwi uye kushandiswa kwaro kwazvino kwaisazouya kusvika pave paya.
Majean akabvaruka akaita manhamba akadai David Beckham uye Gucci brand iva nemuenzaniso wakajeka: muQuattrocento zvinotevera zvakajairika: kuchekwa mune kaviri uye leggings, fashoni yeItaly yakabva iyo yakabvumira jira riri pasi kuti riratidze kuburikidza, kazhinji mune ruvara rwakasiyana.
Vakakurumbira kuyamwa cheli Haisi kuwanikwa kwemazuva ano zvakare. Yakazvarwa senguo tight semi-mukati muzana remakore rechi17 uye, nekufamba kwenguva, yakachinja kusvika yava iyo Vest yezana remakore rechi19, chidimbu chakakosha chewadhiropu yevarume.
Nekune rimwe divi, yatingati "metrosexual" nhasi haina kudzika midzi muzana ramakore rechi 16: kuveura ndebvu kana kushandisa zvisiri izvo zvizorwa kwaionekwa sokushaikwa kwehurume, uye kutsoropodza kwakazowedzera kune avo vaizviratidzira. zvishongo uye corsets muzana remakore rechi19, chaizvo apo vakadzi vakawanda vakanga vachida kuvadzinga kubva pakupfeka kwavo kwemakumi emakore.
Kuboorwa, bhurugwa nezvimwe kudarika
Kuiswa kwejaqueta (jaketi pfupi) uye kaviri muzana remakore rechi15 zvakakonzerawo mhirizhonga, nokuti mabhuruku akaoma akasiya zvakanyanya kuonekwa. Mheremhere iyi yakavharwa ne nhunzi yakakurumbira, kazhinji inozadzwa kuti iwedzere inzwi uye kuzvirumbidza kwoujaya pamberi peshamwari navaeni.
Nechekare muzana remakore rechi20, bhurugwa mulocker room yevakadzi Yakanga iri imwe nguva yechinjo. MuEurope neUnited States yakagamuchirwa pamberi peSpain, uko kushandiswa kwayo kwakabatanidzwa kwemakore kune militiawomen of Civil War, izvo zvakanonotsa kugarisana kwavo.
Pakupera kwemakumi mashanu, mugadziri Josep Ferré akatora danho rakasimba: akakurudzira bhurugwa kuvakadzi uye vakatokwanisa kukurudzira zvizvarwa zvekare kuti zvipfeke silhouette iyo nhasi inoita semazuva ese.
Kucheka, kushambidzika, uye debunking hoaxes
Imwe yengano dzinoramba dziripo dzinoratidza kuna Isabella muKatorike kushaikwa kwehutsanana husingagoneki. Sanz de Bremond anojekesa kuti mambokadzi haana kurega kuzvishongedza uye kuti kuvhiringidzika kunobva kuna Isabel Clara Eugenia, ane mukurumbira wevimbiso yehondo - "kwete kuchinja shati kusvikira ari muridzi wekona" - yakabatanidzwa kune kukomba kweOstend.
Mufananidzo wemupfekero wakadzikama, usingazivikanwe wehumambo hauenderane nekwakabva. Mureururi wamambo, Fray Hernando de Talavera, akanyadziswa na mitsipa uye nazvo siketi nevaurayi kuratidza tsoka dzake, chimwe chinhu chaaiona chisina kufanira mamiriro ake ezvinhu.
Pakazere, ongororo yakataurwa nemunyori ndeiyi chidzidzo chezvemagariro evanhu yakafaranuka: inoratidza mapfekero kodhi, zvishongo uye silhouettes zvakaganhurwa zvinhu uye hierarchies. Nokudaro, ndinopikisa izvozvo Chimiro chega chega chine kamukira kacho, zvisinei kuti zvingaita sezvine mwero.
Kutarisa fashoni kubva mumaonero ezvakaitika kare kunoshandura rondedzero: kubvarura, kuboora, zvipfeko zvakasimba, uye jekete dzatinoona mumugwagwa nhasi dzinotaurirana nemaungira ekare. Bhuku raSanz de Bremond rinobatsira isa sarudzo idzodzo muchirevo vatoona kuti, kupfuura mhedziso novelties, mazhinji ezvipfeko zvedu zvatinofarira ndizvo vadyi venhaka yedzinza refu.